May 24 - 25
High: 82
Low: 57
Partly sunny
Matera in miniature
Matera
Along the way
Alberobello
This morning we headed out for Matera. We made an interim stop at Alberobello, which has unique cone-shaped, stone trulli houses unlike anything we'd seen before. The origins of the trulli style can be traced back to prehistoric times, with evidence of similar structures dating back thousands of years. Today they are occupied by both residents and retail businesses and are very picturesque. We encountered a bridal couple taking wedding photos and it was an incredibly romantic setting for it.
The tour included a visit to a merchant who plied us with good wines and delicious hor d'oeuvres. This is one of the types of stops that make me appreciate the experiences that Rick Steves crafts. While we could travel on our own and see the sights, we could not have had a cocktail party with people we are just getting to know in a truly unique setting. It is a win for those of us on the tour, but also for the local merchant, from whom we made many purchases.
Matera
We finished the day in Matera, specifically in the Sassi district, considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited human settlements in the world, with evidence of habitation dating back to the Paleolithic era. People continued to live in the caves until the 1950's. These days the caves make for a truly distinctive place to stay. We actually were lucky enough to be in a room that felt like something from a medieval castle, and we loved it. This stop was one of the reasons we booked this tour, and it was every bit as fascinating as I'd imagined it would be.
Listen to Rick (and the folks on the forums) when they tell you to travel with just a carry-on and a backpack. It seems like a daunting task, but with planning it can be done. When you get to Matera and make the walk between the bus and the Sassi district, you will thank yourself for having listened to this very good advice. I know I did!
Our first evening there, dinner was on our own. We found a small restaurant with excellent food and, unexpectedly, a form of entertainment!
Local Walking Tour
Hiking Trails to Caves
While in Matera we had a guide who gave us a walking tour of the area. She pointed out the many caves still found across the valley and explained that people had been making their homes in caves like those for thousands of years. The rock is sandstone, which is very soft, so even with rudimentary tools people were able to carve the rock and create living spaces.
Museum House
We explored a cave complex that has been maintained in its original state, before the government moved everyone out. The photos convey a bit about how cramped life was there, with even their donkeys (the main transportation in the district) living inside with them. They also show how unhealthy the caves were. The air is moist there, and moss grows constantly on the walls, meaning that people were always having respiratory issues. That is on top of the complete lack of running water or sanitation.
This former cave church dates back to the Byzantine period. It has frescos painted hundreds of years ago, although they aren't necessarily in great shape because at a certain point it ceased to be used as a church and a family lived there. They altered the space to meet their needs. It is an eerie experience that leaves you imagining what life was like living or worshiping in this dark, claustrophobic cave. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed to be taken inside.
The evening ended with a cocktail party for which each of us provided refreshments that we had purchased either in Vieste (which was the point of the wine-hunting adventure described on that page), Alberobello or Matera. It was a lovely finish to the day.